Big Sky Euro

Made some 4"x4" mounting plates for the front subframe mounting points.
Welded the retaining nuts to these plates and bolted them into place on both sides.
I gave myself some extra room to move the mounting points around with these 4x4 plates.



The plan was to set those points where I made the "critical cuts" on the Caddy right on top of these plates, but I must have measured wrong because it is just way too narrow after measuring again.
Looks like I will cut-off these legs that I left in front of the Caddy axle tunnels and weld in some horizontal plates.
Then I can span that distance between the plates with steel tube.

It doesnt look like your tie rod will clear that at full lock?

That plate is way oversized to give me plenty of room while getting the body into place.
It will get the big cut & grind after all is welded into place.

Thanks to the brake in the weather I got in a few hours outside on the Caddy today.
I was able to cut back those legs that I left from the axle tunnels.
I also burned-up a good wire wheel on the cab underbody where I will need to weld supports.
Better to do that mess of a job outside.



Now I have enough clearance on everything to bring it inside and set it over the subframe.
I will continue to prep the subframe over the next week.
Got to remove the front cross member, power steering lines and down pipe.
Then I will level the subframe side to side.

Looks sweet, can't wait to see more.

I'm back...
Been cutting and grinding on the Caddy to make sure the VR6 and subframe have some wiggle room.
Bought a welder today, a wire feed MIG and will try it out tomorrow.
I will just practice on some scrap till I get good with it.

Seen the truck this weekend, looks good, what welder you get? welding takes some time, esp if your working on thin mk1 metal, hopefully yuo got one with gas capabilities. post a pic!

It's a Clarke 130EN set-up for gas or no gas... it is fan cooled and has a 40% duty cycle, 120volt like yours.
I picked it up at Murdochs for $299 came with a nice rolling cart and every extra you would need to plug and go. Nice grounding clamp and cord lengths. I was just looking, but it was $100 off and I just couldn't see anything else that compared for that price.
Variable wire feed with 4 power settings and will weld up to 3/16" steel.

So, Brandon & Matt what wire diameter are you running on yours for MKI frame and body work?
I was just going to run core fluxed wire, but I can run with gas no problem.
Give me a recommendation on type of wire and gas or no gas.
Thanks, Jim

Run with gas my friend. Cleaner, less smokey, and more penetrating welds.
For body work you should try to run around a .23
And for heavier welding a .30+ will work.
Your welder might not be able to handle much more then .30 as well.
Start practicing on some 1/8" man!
Don't do any sheet metal work without reading on it a bit first.
You have to weld a few cm and then stop and move on, letting that spot cool. Then come back to it later.

weve used .30 flux on pretty much everything. our breaker cant handle the current draw when we use gas, (20 amp) youll need to wire wheel all the underseal away from anywhere close to the weld, one it contaminates the weld and sputters very bad two it melts and it drips and burns ya pretty good (ask matt ) for that thin of steel, i would weld with gas, and a fairly low power setting youll need to practice with gas, as its alot different than flux wire. if you need a crash course on it let us know